Trinh Quang Dung, a 71-year-old scientist from the Vietnam Academy of Science and Technology, embarked on a research journey tracing the roots and socio-historical evolution of Vietnam’s most famous and ubiquitous dish, culminating in his 2022 book “One Hundred Years”. of Vietnamese pho.”
Dung spent decades collecting and studying historical documents to shed light on Pho’s fascinating past and present.
His research revealed a debate around the birthplace of pho: Hanoi or its neighboring province of Nam Dinh. According to the book, in the early 20th century, pho sellers from Nam Dinh brought their dish to Hanoi. At the same time, a variation of pho appeared in Di Trach commune, Ha Dong province, now part of Hanoi.
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A street vendor traveling through Hanoi with pots of pho for sale before 1950. Photo courtesy of the EFEO |
Nonetheless, Dung’s book firmly asserts that Hanoi was the epicenter of pho’s evolution.
According to him, the reason is that the capital had the most thriving market for this dish.
Pho subsequently became increasingly popular in a growing number of regions in Vietnam. In Hanoi, beef (or chicken or sometimes even rarely port) noodle soup was considered a luxury. But as the soup became popular in other areas, rich and poor began to sit together to enjoy this dish on the streets.
And then, on the other hand, the dish has never lost its original reputation:
Even when an influx of near-destitute Nam Dinh textile factories began consuming the dish ubiquitously, pho retained its status as a luxury treat in the Vietnamese countryside. Dung gained this insight into Nam Dinh’s pho culture through dialogues with an elder in Van Cu village in Nam Dinh.
In the historian’s own words during an interview with VnExpress: “Van Cu village was home to the Co family, which had the largest number of individuals engaged in selling pho, with approximately 75% of those who were previously farmers switching to selling pho. Over time, other families began to venture into the area. the pho trade, and Hanoi became the main hub for this craft.
The researcher noted that the current generation of Vietnamese youth may not be attracted to the traditional characteristics of an “old-fashioned” bowl of pho.
During the war, Hanoi residents were frequently evacuated to the countryside to avoid indiscriminate and deadly bombing by the United States, which led to a more rustic lifestyle and eating habits, according to Dung’s book. His research also claimed that this may have driven this generation’s “pho culture” toward “less refinement than its predecessors.” That these changes in society have had a direct impact on both the modern and traditional pho experience we enjoy today – as well as the variations enjoyed by our predecessors – is the thrust of Dung’s work .
The most notable change in traditional pho, according to the book, is the modern transition from the rustic bowls of Bat Trang pottery to the traditional ovens in which the dish was served and cooked. These unique bowls featured a flared mouth and tapered shape. melts which reduces the surface area, keeping the broth hot until the last spoonful. These smaller bowls reflected the idea that pho was a snack and not a full meal.
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A bowl reminiscent of a vintage style pho bowl. Photo courtesy of Huonggombattrang |
“Pho as a substitute for rice emerged later, as life became less traditional and societal changes disrupted many of Hanoi’s cherished traditions,” Dung said.
The researcher pointed out that pho connoisseurs in Hanoi in the past had demanding palates. Many customers brought their own limes to the restaurant, finding that they enhanced the flavor better than store-bought limes.
In his book, Dung describes how Hanoi pho lovers insisted on savoring the luscious broth created from the secretions of cooked beef bone marrow, resulting in a delicious combination of richness and sweetness.
In the past, noodles were wider, almost the size of a man’s little finger. These wider noodles had the ability to capture more broth, allowing customers to savor the sweetness of the broth primarily through the noodles.
While eating, people would scoop up the pho noodles, thinly slice the meat, and add a little broth to their spoon. Slowly, they gently savored each little bite.
Dung emphasized that good pho should be served hot. The introduction of air conditioning had a negative impact on the taste of pho, he claims. During his research on historical documents, Dung pointed out that the late writer Nguyen Tuan always emphasized this aspect.
“The hotter the pho, the more delicious it becomes because it is not overshadowed by the flavor of the beef fat,” Dung said.
One aspect of the essence of Hanoi pho that has diminished over time is the decreasing number of pho vendors, who still prepared each bowl individually. When customers ordered, they assembled the toppings, cut the meat and served each subsequent bowl, guaranteed hot.
What Dung himself hates most are the so-called “high-end” pho versions, made with imported beef and extravagant ingredients, which result in excessively high prices. In his book, Dung also emphasizes that the atmosphere in which pho is enjoyed is important. He believes that this cuisine should be enjoyed in a regular space rather than in a lavish establishment.
To quote journalist Pham Chu in a pre-1975 Saigon newspaper, “If you want good pho, you also need the right setting. You have to eat it directly in the restaurant, and if the place is a little shabby, it It’s even better.”
However, Dung acknowledges that this perspective can only apply to the past, as modern tastes differ and dining standards have evolved.
In reality, Hanoi pho lovers mainly focus on the quality of the pho rather than the decoration and presentation of the restaurant. Old establishments like Thin Bo Ho and Tu Lun continue to thrive despite their modest appearance. Nam Dinh pho restaurants in Hanoi, as well as many other places, generally adhere to a humble and sometimes messy style.
Dung validated this through discussions with Co Nhu Hung, the former president of the Thanh Nam pho restaurant association. Hung said air-conditioned pho restaurants, a trend introduced in Ho Chi Minh City, have not been as well received in Hanoi.
Dung also pointed out that a contributing factor to the transformation of traditional pho is the use of MSG and sugar to enhance its sweetness, a characteristic of pho in times of economic hardship.
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In a bowl of Hanoi pho, you discover slices of meat, a clear and flavorful broth and a generous garnish of green onions. Photo by VnExpress/Quynh Mai |
“It was a time of scarcity. Where could you find meat and bones? When making pho, MSG was the savior,” Dung writes in his book.
Back in the days of subsidies, MSG was a valuable ingredient. A bowl of pho laced with MSG could cost up to 1,000 VND, in stark contrast to the typical few hundred dong for a regular bowl during this period. Around this time, a unique variation of pho appeared in Hanoi, featuring no meat, only steaming water and MSG, served with noodles.
The scarcity of the subsidy era significantly influenced the eating habits of Hanoi’s older generation. Dung noted that this period led to innovative adaptations like mixing pho broth with rice or serving pho with bread. This style of pho gained popularity because it provided a satisfying meal, especially when hunger was a constant companion.
Therefore, it has retained its status as a “distinguished dish” compared to other varieties, such as serving pho with wheat flour cakes. Although this way of eating has gradually disappeared, one version that continues to endure and thrive is the practice of enjoying pho with fried dough.
“True pho connoisseurs reject rushed and noisy eating habits that rob this dish of its noble taste,” Dung writes in his book.
Dung mentions that pho during the subsidy era reflected the ruralization of Hanoians forced to settle in the countryside to escape American bombing. In these pho restaurants, customers had to serve themselves and wait in line to get their bowls. Staff paid little attention to customers and towels were considered a luxury item. Many customers wiped their mouths with chopsticks, recalling the rural traditions often observed during festive meals at the time.
Dung emphasized that he prefers not to dine at traditional restaurants that force customers to wait in line and serve themselves, even if the pho is delicious. Hanoi residents were able to enjoy a leisurely dining experience without the need to wait in line. However, he also emphasized that these preferences are subjective and that he refrains from making judgments.
Society has evolved and individuals like Dung, who represent old Hanoi, are gradually disappearing. The traditional experience and fine dining customs of the past belong to a bygone era, which young people, even when they hear about them, might find it difficult to understand, he noted.
